Castacán, named for the crispy carnitas-style pork belly as made in the Yucatan, is an endlessly cute new taqueria designed for lovers of the southern regions’ renowned pork concoctions. It’s located in a quiet corner of Roma Norte and features decor reminiscent of the mid-century urban tacos once common in the capital, complete with hand-painted signs, folding tubular chairs, tiled walls, and curbside service. But the populist façade belies an enlightened 21st-century sensibility: The ingredients, mostly Berkshire pigs, free-range chicken and corn, are grown on small farms and are free of contaminants. “Happy pigs,” proclaims Andrés, the interim chef who has worked for years with Gabriela Cámara, of Contramar fame and partner in the business. While Castacán doesn’t claim to be an all-inclusive Yucatecan restaurant, the region’s two main porcini gifts, the cochinita (marinated chili/achiote/citrus) and the lechón (oven-roasted suckling pig), the latter topped with namesake crispy confit, they are beautifully rendered. A wide range of sauces include a smoked house, traditional habanera, as well as Asian-style mango and Middle Eastern yogurt. A well-executed, aromatic wine lime soup as well as beans with pork AND Nopales Salad are offered on the judiciously short menu, as are pork-filled pies and a vegetarian option.
Castacan
Puebla 387, corner Acapulco, Rome Nte. (see map)
tel. 55 9357 0596
Open every day from 12:00 to 19:00
ESPAÑOL
